The “Denim”

Fashion
Written By Deniz Tokat

Indigo blue—a color that’s become as timeless as the fabric itself. It’s a shade tied to time, wear, and character. The name “denim” traces back to its origins in 17th-century France, where "serge de Nîmes" (twill from Nîmes) was first crafted as a durable, practical fabric. But denim has traveled far since its roots, evolving from workwear to wardrobe staple, carrying its history to every garment.

As denim spread, Japan became synonymous with its own take on indigo. Known for their craftsmanship, Japanese makers mastered the art of indigo dyeing, creating a rich, deep blue that’s become a standard in premium denim. The process of "Japan Blue" involves layers of hand-dyeing and aging, building up a unique fade that tells its own story. It’s this meticulous attention to detail that’s earned Japanese denim its cult status, recognized worldwide for its depth of color, strength, and timeless appeal.

The term "jeans" has its roots in Genoa, Italy, where sailors and workers wore sturdy trousers made from this cloth. This fabric, dyed with indigo, was called "Gênes," after the French name for Genoa. Over time, the name evolved and became associated with the pants themselves. Genoa jeans offer an early glimpse into denim's evolution, laying the foundation for what would later become the iconic blue jean.

Denim in early 50s/ 60s; Greasers, 50s

In the late 1800s, denim’s transformation took a monumental turn. Jacob Davis, a tailor in Reno, Nevada, and Levi Strauss, the owner of a wholesale dry goods business in San Francisco, partnered to create a new kind of workwear: the blue jean. Davis, seeking a way to make his denim trousers even more durable, introduced copper rivets at key stress points. Strauss, seeing the potential, helped turn Davis’s innovation into a commercial success. Together, they gave birth to blue jeans, marking the beginning of denim’s global dominance in fashion. However, the exact details of this partnership and the origin of blue jeans remain somewhat uncertain, with various accounts suggesting different paths to the iconic garment’s creation.

Today, it’s hard to think of anything as constant yet endlessly changing as denim. Indigo fades with time, leaving behind marks that tell your story. It’s personal, universal, and above all, it’s timeless.

Through the decades, denim has always been about adaptability. In the '50s, it was rebellion—cuffed jeans, white tees, and leather jackets, immortalized by James Dean and the greasers. This subculture adopted denim as a symbol of youthful defiance, wearing it as a uniform for rebellion. The '70s saw denim become laid-back and flared, a uniform for the counterculture. Fast forward to the 2000s, and denim made a statement once again—whether sliced, bleached, or covered in rhinestones, denim became a canvas for individual expression.

In addition to these shifts in style, denim-on-denim, often referred to as the "Canadian tuxedo," has become a bold and timeless fashion choice. Once considered a fashion faux pas, this look—pairing a denim jacket with jeans or mixing different washes—showcases denim’s versatility. It’s a classic look that embodies the essence of casual cool.

James Dean on Rebel Without a Cause; Jane Birkin & Serge Gainsbourg; Britney & Justin Timberlake, 2001; Old Levi’s advertisement

Brands like Levi’s and Lee have played a huge role in shaping denim’s modern identity. For decades, owning a pair of Levi’s jeans symbolized classic American style and durability, with the 501 becoming a go-to for authenticity and timeless cool. Lee, meanwhile, cemented its place in denim history with innovations like the zip fly and its iconic workwear roots. Known for blending practicality with style, Lee became a staple for those seeking dependable yet effortlessly stylish denim, solidifying its reputation as a pioneer in the evolution of everyday fashion.

Denim's evolution from workwear to an iconic fashion staple reflects its enduring power. With legends like Levi’s and Wrangler, denim has seamlessly woven itself into the fabric of everyday life. Whether worn as a statement piece or with that bold denim-on-denim look, it remains a timeless, essential part of style.

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